Week 2: Kia Ora North Island, NZ

 Week 2: Kia Ora North island, NZ

It’s been a week of reunions from our last journey to New Zealand 21 years ago. We wanted to introduce the kids to camper life and so, upon arrival, picked up a 6 berth camper van from a budget company named Jucy, which sends a lime green and purple van to the airport to gather up you and your things for a very reasonable price. The kids thrilled at the novelty of a camper van, with all the nooks and crannies for storing stuff, the tiny gas hob, and particularly the upper berth bed above the cab which required a hook on ladder to access. This one was fought over by the boys and ended up in the possession of M, with enticement to L that his little brother would be squirreled away up there. It was raining cats and dogs on arrival, which continued through our drive to Rotorua. Having had a handful of hours of sleep, were were all in somewhat of a dreamlike state when we arrived at the parking lot in the center of town by mid-afternoon, fortunate to squeeze into one of the last remaining free spots for overnight. We were greeted by the sulfuric stench of over-boiled eggs, courtesy of the surrounding volcanic hot springs in the area, who’s most proximal focus was the Polynesian Spa across the street from us. After a brief settle-in to the camper van (an order of magnitude more luxurious than then 1986 Toyota Hi-Ace that we purchased back in 2004), we trundled over to the meeting point for our Te Pa Tu Maori traditional village and dinner experience. We were bused about 15 minutes away to the wooded village site, where a traditional fire ceremony honoring relatives and the recently passed awaited us. After this welcoming ceremony, we were broken down into smaller groups and essentially had cultural workshops accompanied by modern takes on traditional Maori dishes reformulated into hor d’uervres like seaweed salad atop a small fried bread puff and venison tenderloin atop a beetroot chip. The cultural workshops consisted of dancing, stick-fighting, and games, which were inclusive and really quite fun. We were then herded to the dining area, where the traditional hangi cooking pits were opened and explained to us, prior to seating ourselves at candlelit tables. We received a feast of dishes - seafood chowder, duck confit, roasted pork belly and steamed root veg, followed by steamed pudding and chocolates. Not a very traditional meal, but quite tasty, and concomitantly we were entertained with traditional song and dance as well as and introduction to the haka. The evening concluded with the singing of a song from each country that the visitors were from- for Norway it was AHA’s “Take On Me.” 

After a dip at the Polynesian Spa’s lakefront hot springs, and a lovely gelato at their cafe, we proceeded across the winding road through the valley (a 4+ hour drive) to Gisborne on the eastern coast to visit mom’s old friends R and T, who were emigrees from South Africa and Denmark via a long stop in wester MA. The last time we visited them, they had just settled into a home near the beach with their young family and new jobs at the nearby hospital. Now, the kids have grown up and left home, and they have moved into another home also near the beach. We arrived just as the sun was setting and were instructed to head across the sports field and over the road to the broad expanse of shoreline to catch those golden last few moments before dark. It was joyful and glorious, the light reflecting off wet sand like a mirror. We returned with sand between our toes, wet pants, and big grins. The rest of the evening was spent catching up and enjoying a nice bottle of pinot noir from Cross Ridge Estate near Napier. 

The next day we set off southward to Napier, where we picked up a six pack of beer at the well-established Sunshine Brewing company and headed further south towards the Te Atu Estate vineyards for a brief end-of day wine tasting of some fantastic wines (sent home as souvenirs) and a drive back to the coast to a free shoreside campsite where we sat on the rocky beach and watched the sun set. After dark (comes early at this time of year, around 5PM), we sat around the motorhome table and indulged in instant ramen with bok chow and a fried egg on top. The night was particularly chilly, so we bundled up in most of our clothing and enjoyed the sound of the waves breaking a dozen feet from our camper. 

Taupo was next on the list, a mere 2 hour drive from the coast. We arrived in time to sign up for a jetboat tour to Huka Falls, which was particularly impressive during high water at wintertime, and then on to a garishly lit holiday park with waterslides and large thermally heated pools for an end -of day soak. We all slept well that night. 

We took the longer route to Auckland so that we could explore some of the more scenic roadways, but then ran right into the impressive commuter traffic on a Thursday afternoon. A 10 mile drive took well over an hour and we barely made it to our camper-van parking site In time to walk to dinner in the rain. A clever family had turned their front yard into a sort of AirBnB for camper vans which a nice paved parking spot, electrical hookup, outdoor seating (for better weather than we had), fairy lights, and even a salt-water jacuzzi in the back. Even in low-season they book out most nights. We met mom’s old friend A and her daughter C, who had last visited us about 15 years ago in Central MA as an older teenager traveling around the world herself. Dinner was at a tasty Chinese place focused on pork parts boiled in a large pot, served either atop rice or soup noodles with varying volumes of chili oil added (of course we picked lots). We had a nice catch up, half of us with sweat on our brows from the chilis. 

To be continued…

Week 1: Bora Bora Blue

 There's nothing quite like the teal waters of Bora Bora. It's more striking than you can imagine, and more unbelievable. We first glimpsed it circling around for landing from within a turboprop plane connecting Papeete to the island. The outer motu, hosting many of the built up resorts, surrounding a great blue lagoon with the ancient volcanic Mount Otemanu piercing up through the middle in a jagged and unmistakable profile. Staff from the Four Seasons greeted us with leis at the airport from the dock (can you imagine?) abutting the airport arrivals and ushered us to the motorboat that whisked us off to the iconic overwater bungalows one sees on ads from tropical places. The resort was impeccable; even the sand had been carefully raked and dead leaves discarded each morning at sunrise. A Polynesian man on guitar met us as the vessel pulled in, welcoming us to the resort with a ballad and fresh passionfruit juice in ceramic cups. The five days passed as in a dream. Golf carts shared the paths surrounding and connecting the property, with staff cheerfully proffering a "la ora na" (sounds like "yoranna") in greeting every time they passed (which was often, and speedily). We quickly learned how to say "mauruuru" in thanks to all the delicious French pastries offered at breakfast time. Crepes with sugar and vanilla freckled whipped cream. Fresh juice. Creamy, tangy set yogurt in cups with flavors changing daily. Dinners were arranged at each of the three restaurants, with food and drink priced extravagantly. Best to close your eyes and order away. 

Under the surface, there were more treats to enjoy. The lagoon winding around the resort had been maintained and groomed to encourage coral growth and schools of tropical fish. Snorkeling amdist those was welcome and un-intimidating for newbies. Farther afield in the lagoon, there were schools of manta ray 6-feet across flapping their wings to glide elegantly though the water. We dove Anau, a narrows where they gathered for cleaning and a predictable place for sightings. Visibility was probably under 10 feet but irrelevant when these creatures came within a few feet of us. The reef outside the motu had much clearer waters and bustled with the activity of thousands of brightly colored and diverse fish species. There were groups of black-tipped reef sharks, curiously nosing around the dive boats. A single sea turtle bobbing among the waves. The boys tried diving for the first time, and were fortunate to have their own private boat and crew, and their curious mother lurking above deck. M came back glittering with excitement, L was more reserved, having enjoyed the experience but not necessarily wanting a repeat. 

Mauruuru Bora Bora! What a delight!

Packed and ready to rumble!

 128 pounds of stuff for 5 people x 9 weeks

Adventure, here we come!

Rustic Gnocchi with Gorgonzola, Beets, and Walnuts

 

Serves 4-6 

 

Gnocchi:

2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes 

2 eggs

1 cup all purpose flour, plus more if needed

Salt to taste

Sau:

1 bunch beets (3-4 medium sized) and beet greens

1 cup heavy cream

3-4 ounces gorgonzola, crumbled

1/4 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

2 cloves garlic, minced

olive oil

For gnocchi:

1. Boil potatoes in salted water until very tender, about 10-15 minutes, and drain.

2. Mash potatoes and allow to cool.

3. Beat eggs and mix into the potatoes.

4. Add flour to make a soft dough.

5. Boil a large pot of salted water, add a small blob of the dough and boil until it rises to the top. If mushy, add more flour to mixture.  

6. Roll the dough into thick ropes approx 2 cm in diameter, cut into small pillows, whatever size you prefer your gnocchi to be. You can be fancy and roll them onto a fork to make striations for the sauce to stick to, or just throw them into the boiling water as is. 

7. Cook all gnocchi until they float, then drain. 

For sauce:

1. Peel and dice the beets and cut into 1 cm cubes.

2. Chop the beet greens coarsely, including the stems.

3.Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat.

4. Add minced garlic and then the beets. Cover the beets to allow to steam for a couple minutes.

5. Once the beets are slightly softened, add the beet greens and stems and saute until tender.

6. Add cream and almost all the gorgonzola. Reserve a couple tablespoons of gorgonzola for garnish.

7. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, if still quite thin, make a slurry of cornstarch and a couple teaspoons of cool water and add to the sauce. Simmer gently until velvety.

8. Season with salt and pepper. 

9. Add gnocchi and stir gently.

10. Garnish with walnuts and the reserved gorgonzola.

Warm Quinoa and Butternut Squash Salad

This is inspired by the quinoa pilaf we sampled at Trader Joe's. But better...

Serves 4

1 1/4 cups red quinoa (1 box from Wegmans, prepare as per box directions: 2 1/4 cup water, boil for 15 minutes until tender)
1 butternut squash, peeled, deseeded, and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 large bunch kale, center stalk removed and torn into bite sized pieces
6 ounces bacon, cut into 1/4 inch strips
1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon coarse mustard
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons maple syrup
3 tablespoons any combination of olive oil or walnut oil, plus additional olive oil for roasting
salt and pepper to taste

1. Prepare quinoa as above
2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
3. Arrange squash in a single layer on a large baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 10 minutes until tender and beginning to brown at edges.
4. Do same thing as above (step 3) with kale, but roast only 4-6 minutes until crispy.
5. In a medium saucepan, fry bacon over medium heat until fat is rendered and bacon is crispy. Don't get rid of the fat!
6. In a large bowl, beat the juice from 1/2 lemon, mustard, garlic, maple syrup, and olive/walnut oil.
7. Add quinoa and roasted squash to bowl. Pour bacon including rendered fat over the top and mix with a large spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
8. Serve with the crispy kale chips on the side, or gently stir in.

Beets and Blue Cheese Butter

This dish can be prepared in under 15 minutes. Given that I usually roast beets for an hour in the oven before peeling/prepping them, this is a huge improvement. Plus, the dish gets some great savory notes from the blue cheese and walnuts.


Serves 4-6 as a side dish


3 large beets (about 3 inches diameter) and their greens
1/4 cup butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
about 1 inch block of blue cheese (definitely less than 1 ounce)
1/4 cup walnuts, toasted
salt and pepper to taste


1. Prepare beets by peeling skins with a vegetable peeler. Cut the bulbs in half, then half again. Chop each quarter into thin slices about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Coarsely chop the stems and greens into 2 inch pieces.
2. Melt butter in a large frying pan over medium heat, add garlic until fragrant. Then quickly add the beet root pieces. Stir briefly, then cover and allow to steam for a minute or so. Add the stems and greens and cover again for another minute. Remove cover and stir, distributing the heat and garlic butter.
3. When the beet root is just tender, turn down the heat and crumble blue cheese on top. Let this melt as you carefully stir it in. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with toasted walnuts.

Wheat Berry and Tuna Salad with Crispy Accents

Serves 4

2 cups cooked wheat berries (from about 1 cup raw, boiled in salted water for 30-40 minutes)

1 can white beans, drained

1 tomato, diced

2 cans oil packed tuna, drained and crumbled coarsely

Dressing:

Grated rind and juice from 1 small lemon (or 1/2 large)

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 small shallot finely chopped

1 teaspoon coarse mustard

1 tablespoon fresh lemon thyme (or regular), chopped finely

1 clove garlic, minced

salt and pepper to taste

Embellishments:

1 cup packed curly leaf parsley, washed and thoroughly dried

1/4 cup caper berries, drained and dried

1. Make dressing by whisking all ingredients together in a medium sized bowl

2. Add wheat berries, beans, tomato, and tuna. This mixture can sit in the fridge for a day or so and will just get more flavorful. 

3. Heat about 1 inch of canola oil in a small saucepan. In small batches, gently fry the parsley, taking care to fish them out when they just turn crispy before they get completely frizzled. Remove and drain in a paper towel lined bowl. Be careful, as the oil will spatter. Now do the same thing with the capers. These will blossom into beautiful little crunchy flowers. 

Serve this wheat salad sprinkled with its embellishments or as a composed salad on top of greens in a balsamic vinaigrette.